Haute Couture, autumn-winter 2023/24: An ode to lightness
23 July 2023 | 3:48 pm
Haute Couture is part of French soft power: creating thousands of jobs and huge profits, a world away from a dramatic news cycle. This season's Paris Fashion Week was no exception. Dior's show saw Maria Grazia Chiuri reinventing the pleats of ancient Greece, while Iris van Herpen experimented with new shapes to allow movement. In their new collections, the two fashion houses are creating an ode to lightness – perhaps an antidote to our turbulent times?
30 Jan 2021
27 Feb 2021
7 Feb 2022
30 Jan 2021
French fashion house Chanel chose an intimate family-like atmosphere for its Spring-Summer 2021 Haute Couture show, with models strutting under flower arches at a socially-distanced presentation with a few famous faces.
27 Feb 2021
Haute couture at its best is a dazzling array of possibilities. It's also increasingly an artform being expressed through the medium of film, with in-person fashion shows still off-bounds thanks to the Covid-19 pandemic. Japanese designer Yuima Nakazato has embraced new techniques both inspired and showcased by model-turned-activist Lauren Wasser, who lost both her legs to toxic shock syndrome. Meanwhile, Italy's Sofia Crociani finds inspiration in cognitive experiments from the 1950s and '60s that tracked the effect of LSD on spiders.
5 Sep 2021
Thread, the primary building block for any piece of clothing, is increasingly inspiring a number of fashion labels. At Dior, Maria-Grazia Chiuri experiments with a new tweed made from cashmere, while Indian designer Vaishali Shadangule creates her own fabrics from scratch as part of her homage to the power of nature. And Parisian designer Clara Daguin explores the intersection between science and mysticism through her beguiling use of fibre optic threads.
19 Sep 2021
Next winter's haute couture offerings are as concerned with protecting our oceans as they are about showcasing the best of ancestral savoir-faire. Lebanese designer Zuhair Murad rubs shoulders with Kerby Jean-Raymond, the first Black American to be invited to present his collection in Paris. Plus, the likes of Christophe Josse and Chanel celebrate the artistic accomplishments of their artisans, while Iris van Herpen embarks on a thrilling collaboration with Domitille Kiger, the French freeflying world champion!
7 Feb 2022
From Grace Kelly's granddaughter Charlotte Casiraghi bucking catwalk trends on a horse, to Valentino's relatable curvy and mature models in sublime garments and tributes to the king of couture Thierry Mugler, fashion specialist Jennifer Ben Brahim speaks to Eve Jackson about Paris's Haute Couture Week.
5 Feb 2022
January's summer 2022 Couture Fashion Week showcased the latest sartorial offerings from 17 labels, just over half the number included in the official calendar due to ongoing Covid restrictions. Dior's Maria-Grazia Chiuri offered an ode to embroidery at Paris's Rodin museum, Jean Paul Gaultier handed the reigns of his empire over to Belgian designer Glenn Martens, while Alexandre Vauthier embraced the Roaring Twenties as an homage to our collective resilience in the face of the Covid-19 pandemic. FRANCE 24 takes you to the catwalks.
26 Feb 2022
Haute couture is about innovation and exquisite tailoring, but it's also about ideas. Franco-Cameroonian designer Imane Ayissi, the first Black designer honoured with the title of "couturier" by France's Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion, offers a collection that fuses Western and African influences. Meanwhile, Japan's Yuima Nakazato interrogates the limits of our abilities of perception with his "Liminal" collection. And after a two-year absence, Lebanese couturier Elie Saab is overjoyed to be back in Paris. FRANCE 24 takes you to the catwalks at Paris Fashion Week.
1 Jun 2022
Some 300 million pairs of socks are sold in France every year. Although most are made in China, some small French firms are carving out a market with their "made in France" offerings. One of them is Broussaud. For three generations, this family-run business based in the Limousin region has been constantly innovating, with increasingly complex designs. FRANCE 24 went to find out the secret of its success.
9 Jul 2022
Chanel creative director Virginie Viard opted for a low-key rendition of haute couture for the French fashion house's fall-winter runway show on Tuesday, sending out a mix of long, full-skirted dresses and tweed ensembles with slightly relaxed fits.
17 Jul 2022
This year's ready-to-wear winter collections are all about love and seduction: the delicate balance between what's shown and what isn't. Vaquera has found inspiration in the iconic black latex jumpsuit worn by Maggie Cheung in the 1996 film "Irma Vep" directed by Olivier Assayas. Victor Weinsanto, meanwhile, showcases an extravagant corset-and-cape look for "Emily in Paris" star Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu. Finally, the Love Brings Love exhibition offers a moving homage to late iconic designer Alber Elbaz.
27 Aug 2022
Haute couture is a sartorial discipline revered in France and across the world, but at its best it's also an expression of often complex philosophical ideas and convictions. Designers are continually grappling with the tension between body and spirit, between being and merely appearing, between functionality and seduction. FRANCE 24 takes a deep dive into the latest Haute couture collections from Iris van Herpen, Yuima Nakazato, Imane Ayissi, Adeline André and Alexandre Vauthier.
The House of Dior turns over vast sums of money for luxury giant LVMH, but high-end fashion can never be just about the cash: it's also about world-leading artistry. In her spring-summer 2023 collection, Dior's artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri pays homage to the elegant modernity of the Black Parisian jazz stars of the 1920s, in particular Joséphine Baker. Meanwhile, fashion historian and curator Olivier Saillard celebrates the humble wardrobe of his late mother by transforming it with haute couture techniques.
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