The latest ready-to-wear collections in Paris are proof that fashion is art in its own right: mere adornment making way for extraordinary craftsmanship, show after show. At Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri celebrates the 1950s, specifically the feminism encapsulated by Catherine Dior, Edith Piaf and Juliette Greco.

France's Victor Weinsanto, Vincent Pressiat and Alice Vaillant encapsulate a new generation of boundless energy and talent; of fashion designers determined to disrupt the sartorial status quo. Not only do they embrace the latest couture innovations, they're also firmly plugged into the zeitgeist – a desire to create fashion that's more responsible, more daring and more free.

Can ready-to-wear collections help us answer key questions about who we are and how we should live? On exiting the latest Rick Owens show, the answer from Montreal-based fashion duo Matières Fécales was a resolute "yes".

If there was one word to describe the latest round of ready-to-wear offerings for summer 2023, it would be freedom, a desire to liberate bodies – and minds – from all forms of restraint. Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto rejects any fashion that treats women like dolls rather than people, while his compatriot Hidenori Kumakiri reimagines military uniforms and French designer Mossi Traoré finds inspiration in binmen’s uniforms.

The first is an English designer who fights for a cleaner world, through more responsible design. The second is an Australian lingerie designer who also works as an artist. The third is a Ukrainian designer, determined to stay true to her cultural and sartorial roots. Stella McCartney, Michaela Stark and Lilia Litkovska are three women using fashion to undermine oppression, whatever form it may take. FRANCE 24 went to meet them.

he luxury sector has never been so healthy, in both financial and creative terms. At Dior, Maria-Grazia Chiuri has called on artist Eva Jospin to design a grotto made from recycled carboard to serve as a backdrop to her fashion tribute to Catherine de Médicis.

This year's ready-to-wear winter collections are all about love and seduction: the delicate balance between what's shown and what isn't. Vaquera has found inspiration in the iconic black latex jumpsuit worn by Maggie Cheung in the 1996 film "Irma Vep" directed by Olivier Assayas. Victor Weinsanto, meanwhile, showcases an extravagant corset-and-cape look for "Emily in Paris" star Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu. Finally, the Love Brings Love exhibition offers a moving homage to late iconic designer Alber Elbaz.

He doesn't often speak to the media, but when he does, we listen. Since 2018, Italian designer Riccardo Tisci has been at the helm of British fashion powerhouse Burberry. The chief creative officer speaks to us exclusively about his life and his sartorial vision. Back in Paris, we take a look at the latest offerings from Yohji Yamamoto and Christelle Kocher, who both place diversity and cultural exchanges at the heart of their work.

With war raging in Ukraine, it's not easy to know how to speak about fashion – if at all. The best answer is to face the paradox. Thanks to the French Federation for Haute Couture and Fashion, Ukrainian designer Lilia Litovskaya is now safe in Paris. At Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia, who fled a Kremlin-backed civil war in Georgia in 1993, offers up a hostile backdrop for his collection. Labels Marine Serrre, Atlein, Benmoyal and Germanier, meanwhile, are championing freedom of expression with their eco-friendly offerings.

War may have broken out in Europe, but the world of fashion has decided that the show – that is, next winter's ready-to-wear Fashion Week – must go on. Financial interests no doubt played a large part in that decision, but so too did the conviction that now isn't the time to be stifling artistic expression. For the occasion, Dior takes advantage of technological innovation, Caribbean duo Botter defend coral reefs and the French Institute of Fashion encourages its students to embrace virtual reality.

After almost two years of empty catwalks, summer 2022's ready-to-wear collections were finally able to be shown in public, and designers rose to the occasion. Yohji Yamamoto's collection was all about the perils of climate change. But the standout feature of this season is an approach to fashion that privileges the female gaze, with Marine Serre, Dior and Isabel Marant all presenting clothes designed to be worn by women and enjoyed by women – rather than having men looking at them!

As the world of fashion mourns the death of Kenzo Takada, Paris once again plays host to real-life fashion shows. Under the leadership of creative director Felipe Oliveira Baptista, Kenzo sounds the alarm over the destruction of global bee populations. At Dior, meanwhile, Maria Grazia Chiuri explores the way clothes are now more in the private sphere than ever before. And Nigerian designer Kenneth Ize uses his catwalk show to send home a defiant message: the celebration of his queer identity.