Ready-to-wear, winter 2022-23: Fashion as a means of protecting freedom of speech
21 March 2022 | 5:06 am
With war raging in Ukraine, it's not easy to know how to speak about fashion – if at all. The best answer is to face the paradox. Thanks to the French Federation for Haute Couture and Fashion, Ukrainian designer Lilia Litovskaya is now safe in Paris. At Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia, who fled a Kremlin-backed civil war in Georgia in 1993, offers up a hostile backdrop for his collection. Labels Marine Serrre, Atlein, Benmoyal and Germanier, meanwhile, are championing freedom of expression with their eco-friendly offerings.
In this article
9 Oct 2022
From Balmain's "music festival" runway show featuring iconic pop star Cher, to all eyes on the collection of Jean-Paul Gaultier's protégé Victor Weinsanto, FRANCE 24's Jennifer Ben Brahim brings us the highlights from Paris Fashion Week's spring/summer 2023 collections.
8 Oct 2022
he luxury sector has never been so healthy, in both financial and creative terms. At Dior, Maria-Grazia Chiuri has called on artist Eva Jospin to design a grotto made from recycled carboard to serve as a backdrop to her fashion tribute to Catherine de Médicis.
21 Oct 2022
The first is an English designer who fights for a cleaner world, through more responsible design. The second is an Australian lingerie designer who also works as an artist. The third is a Ukrainian designer, determined to stay true to her cultural and sartorial roots. Stella McCartney, Michaela Stark and Lilia Litkovska are three women using fashion to undermine oppression, whatever form it may take. FRANCE 24 went to meet them.
9 Nov 2022
Things aren’t looking great for the future of the planet, but this year's Hyères International Fashion Festival has some innovative suggestions. Designers from across the world are coming up with increasingly daring ways to reduce fashion's ecological footprint. The big winners of the festival's 37th edition – Jenny Hytönen, Valentin Lessner and Sini Saavala – show us how it’s done.
17 Nov 2022
The GTCO Fashion Weekend is a consumer-focused fair and free business platform designed to showcase the best of Africa’s Fashion to a global audience whilst promoting the effervescent enterprise of the continent’s growing fashion industry.
Second-hand clothes come to countries like Nigeria from across the world in bales, with some of it destined for landfill. Nigerian designer Uche Aladimma is upcycling those materials for his new eco-fashion label.
26 Nov 2022
A seven-hour drive southwest of the Tunisian capital lies Chott el-Djerid, north Africa's largest salt lake and the setting for the thirteenth edition of Tunis Fashion Week. The youngest designer participating, 18-year-old Haroun Ghanmi, celebrates the Tunisian techno scene, while fellow designer Yousra Sen creates one-of-a-kind pieces.
If there was one word to describe the latest round of ready-to-wear offerings for summer 2023, it would be freedom, a desire to liberate bodies – and minds – from all forms of restraint. Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto rejects any fashion that treats women like dolls rather than people, while his compatriot Hidenori Kumakiri reimagines military uniforms and French designer Mossi Traoré finds inspiration in binmen’s uniforms.
Can ready-to-wear collections help us answer key questions about who we are and how we should live? On exiting the latest Rick Owens show, the answer from Montreal-based fashion duo Matières Fécales was a resolute "yes".
2022 was a difficult year in many ways, but that didn't stop the biggest luxury labels securing impressive profits or coming up with exciting new collaborations, such as one between Jean Paul Gaultier and Olivier Rousteing. This past year was marked by Russia's invasion of Ukraine, a lack of raw materials and increased awareness of just how polluting the fashion industry is.
This year, the show is taking place in Dakar, Senegal – the first luxury event of its kind to take place in sub-Saharan Africa. Rapper Abd Al Malik, writer Alain Mabanckou, model and producer Caroline de Maigret, actress Lyna Khoudri, musician Nix, director Moly Kane, actress Whitney Peak and musician Pharrell Williams talk us through their impressions of the show.
These days, almost all fashion collections presented in Paris have a name, such as "Enfants Terribles" for the Japanese label Kidill, which resurrects 1990s skate culture. For Yohji Yamamoto, it's "Don't Do That". At Walter Van Beirendonck, the collection is called "We Need New Eyes To See The Future", while Rick Owens has chosen "Luxor Men's" and Jeanne Friot "Red Warriors".
1 day ago
Find these stories and much more when you grab a copy of The Guardian on Thursday.
1 day ago
The number of wild mountain gorillas, who are at risk from humans, is increasing for the first time in years. This is thanks to the efforts of conservationists like Uganda's first-ever wildlife veterinarian, Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka, who says they are truly gentle giants. There are just over a thousand mountain gorillas left, mostly high in the mountains in Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. Kalema-Zikusoka has also written a book, "Walking with Gorillas", charting her life from young enthusiast to wildlife campaigner.
1 day ago
Brazilian nurses make more money working in Germany, but are afforded less responsibility and recognition than at home. Three women spoke with DW about their experiences.
1 day ago
Critics of Laos' repressive one-party state, both in the country and in exile in Thailand, have been targeted in a recent series of arrests and attacks.
1 day ago
Civilians living downstream of the dam have been urged to evacuate in the face of catastrophic flooding.