Ready-to-wear, autumn-winter 2021/22: Dior’s unsettling vision of beauty

War may have broken out in Europe, but the world of fashion has decided that the show – that is, next winter's ready-to-wear Fashion Week – must go on. Financial interests no doubt played a large part in that decision, but so too did the conviction that now isn't the time to be stifling artistic expression. For the occasion, Dior takes advantage of technological innovation, Caribbean duo Botter defend coral reefs and the French Institute of Fashion encourages its students to embrace virtual reality.

With war raging in Ukraine, it's not easy to know how to speak about fashion – if at all. The best answer is to face the paradox. Thanks to the French Federation for Haute Couture and Fashion, Ukrainian designer Lilia Litovskaya is now safe in Paris. At Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia, who fled a Kremlin-backed civil war in Georgia in 1993, offers up a hostile backdrop for his collection. Labels Marine Serrre, Atlein, Benmoyal and Germanier, meanwhile, are championing freedom of expression with their eco-friendly offerings.

He doesn't often speak to the media, but when he does, we listen. Since 2018, Italian designer Riccardo Tisci has been at the helm of British fashion powerhouse Burberry. The chief creative officer speaks to us exclusively about his life and his sartorial vision. Back in Paris, we take a look at the latest offerings from Yohji Yamamoto and Christelle Kocher, who both place diversity and cultural exchanges at the heart of their work.

This year's ready-to-wear winter collections are all about love and seduction: the delicate balance between what's shown and what isn't. Vaquera has found inspiration in the iconic black latex jumpsuit worn by Maggie Cheung in the 1996 film "Irma Vep" directed by Olivier Assayas. Victor Weinsanto, meanwhile, showcases an extravagant corset-and-cape look for "Emily in Paris" star Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu. Finally, the Love Brings Love exhibition offers a moving homage to late iconic designer Alber Elbaz.

Sports apparel maker Hummel said it has "toned down" Denmark's national team jersey for the World Cup, and introduced a black third kit in the "color of mourning," in protest at rights abuses in Qatar.

he luxury sector has never been so healthy, in both financial and creative terms. At Dior, Maria-Grazia Chiuri has called on artist Eva Jospin to design a grotto made from recycled carboard to serve as a backdrop to her fashion tribute to Catherine de Médicis.

Hospitals in Germany are "with their back to the wall" amid the latest rise in COVID infections, says Germany's Hospital Association director Gerald Gass.

The first is an English designer who fights for a cleaner world, through more responsible design. The second is an Australian lingerie designer who also works as an artist. The third is a Ukrainian designer, determined to stay true to her cultural and sartorial roots. Stella McCartney, Michaela Stark and Lilia Litkovska are three women using fashion to undermine oppression, whatever form it may take. FRANCE 24 went to meet them.

If there was one word to describe the latest round of ready-to-wear offerings for summer 2023, it would be freedom, a desire to liberate bodies – and minds – from all forms of restraint. Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto rejects any fashion that treats women like dolls rather than people, while his compatriot Hidenori Kumakiri reimagines military uniforms and French designer Mossi Traoré finds inspiration in binmen’s uniforms.

Can ready-to-wear collections help us answer key questions about who we are and how we should live? On exiting the latest Rick Owens show, the answer from Montreal-based fashion duo Matières Fécales was a resolute "yes".

Brazil's iconic yellow jersey has long stood for some of football's best moments. But that's also made it a target for political movements which have used its imagery for their own gain.

These days, almost all fashion collections presented in Paris have a name, such as "Enfants Terribles" for the Japanese label Kidill, which resurrects 1990s skate culture. For Yohji Yamamoto, it's "Don't Do That". At Walter Van Beirendonck, the collection is called "We Need New Eyes To See The Future", while Rick Owens has chosen "Luxor Men's" and Jeanne Friot "Red Warriors".